At Ynys we parked up in the village and followed the sign leading up the hill to Eglwys Llanfihangel Y Traethau. In the churchyard is an extremely interesting gravestone. Important because a) it is positively dated to the reign of Owain Gwynedd, the King who reigned between 1137 and 1170, and b) it is the grave of a woman, clearly of status. The stone reads Hoc (or perhaps Hic) est sepulchrum Wleder matris Odeleu qui primus edificavit hanc ecclesiam in tempore Ewini regis This means, "Here is the grave of Wleder mother of Hoedliw who first built this church in the reign of King Owain". The script is carved in a Carolingian style that came to Britain along with the Normans. Sadly nothing remains of the 12th C church, and we don't know anything more about Wleder or Hoedliw, but there are great views from the church over the Traeth back towards Porthmadog. #walkingwiththeancestors